French born Serge Lutens is reflecting his vision of beauty since the early 60s in many ways: as a photographer and film maker, designer, make-up and perfume creator – his works for Dior, Shiseido and collaborations with Irving Penn and Richard Avedon in the 70s and 80s are iconic.
It is an eclectic approach to aesthetics that leads to a poetic output, especially in his own perfume collection, launched 2000.
This almost romantical atmosphere is mixed with a very eccentric appeal: Lutens follows no rules nor is trying to fit into any footprints.All of his creations are unique, both in- and outside, Serge Lutens’ comes from both art and crafts.
It is especially visible and smellable in his perfume collection, which is as multifaceted as ornaments to be found in his chosen home of Marrakesh.
“Coming to the fore or fading away, each one has its moment.” describes Lutens his Les Eaux De Politesse perfume line – Light, fresh, transparent.
An inspirational air with abstract sparks that enhance simplicity into something exciting. He’s catching a mood with each scent, and filters, breaks it – to form a new feeling. Visible, smellable, timeless, but framing a moment.
„I use the word ‘clous’ – meaning nails, or things that are practically worthless – metaphorically, because this Eau is dear to me! The orange peel pricks your eyes, and by nails I mean cloves, of course,“ describes Lutens this perfume.
The most recent launch features earthy and slightly sweet cloves, usually used in wintery context. Here they receive a fresh zestiness through orange and mandarine notes, so the effect is invigorating, blowing away winter’s dust and adding spice to the summer breeze.
„Just as the day brings them alive, the evening sets them ablaze. Of all the citrus family — orange, mandarin, grapefruit — the lemon tree, and specifically its blossom, exudes a magical freshness,“ so Lutens.
Florals clashing with citric notes and a hint of sweet musk: Freshness served like a minimalistic tarte in a french patisserie, a small, sharp slice of perfection.
„The situation was too hot for me to handle. Or a chill ran down my spine. I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, „tears of glass“ come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool.“
A smooth yet crisp, achieved through incense plus an almost metallic coolness, give this perfume a mysterious aura with being both hot and cold.